I’ve seen Claire and Eleanor Post’s about their Fabric Answers and I’d thought I’d join in a timely manner for a change…. better than my Seamstress Tag Post which was a little late only by 5 months….but hey who’s counting?!

This is a fab idea was started by Lisa Emerita and Renata of RunningNStyle. Thank you ladies!

1. What is your favourite fabric to work with?

It is hard to choose……but you can’t beat a beautiful Cotton Lawn it’s a breeze to sew with yet so beautifully soft whilst wearing but then I do love a good thick Jersey which you can whip something up in it in no time at all!

2. What is your least favourite fabric to work with?

It definitely has to be chiffon as it is soo slippery and lightweight! You need to be extra careful of placing pins and getting your thread and needle right or it will leave big holes in it… just too much faffing for me!

3. What is your favourite fabric to wear?

Mine at the moment has to be Jersey! It fab for keeping me warm and doesn’t crease easily!

4. What is your least favourite fabric to wear?

Urggghhhh polycotton! Yes it’s cheap to buy but you can tell, it doesn’t have any nice feel to it and really stiff but yet its good to try a toile out of it though.

5. What is your favourite texture to work with?

I am loving jersey at the moment, especially with the use of my Singer 14sh754 Overlocker I can make a top in a couple of hours from cutting to sewing

6. What is your favourite print?

I do like my birds and animals but then i do like ornate prints too but these are on my wish list:

Confetti from Dashwood Paper Meadow Cotton Collection. This would make a great smart work shirt… I just need to decide which pattern to use!!

Modern Reflection Paper Cut Floral Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric by Girlcharlee from their Bolt Collection. I made a beautiful little lingerie set from this and would love to make a Dress out of it!

Then who can’t resist a bit of Art Gallery fabrics?!! I love this Nightfall Moon Stories Spark Knit i bet it would make some

7. What is your favourite colour palette?

As you can tell….It has to be dark colours, i love navy, purple and black but i do like to throw in a bit lighter colours now and again.

8. What is your least favourite colour palette?

Definitley pink!!! Pink doesn’t suit me in the slightest plus lighter pale shades will show how messy I can be after eating meals! Hahahah!

9. What is your favourite fibre content to work with?

Oh it has to be Ponte Roma Jersey with its Double Knit Construction yet still has some stretch to it but its fab to disguise any lumps and bumps!!

10. What is the first fabric you worked with? 

It was a cheap blue polycotton that i got from Boyes as i didn’t want to splash out on the ‘Pretty’ fabrics incase it was a massive failure!!

11. What is your ultimate fabric goal to work with?

I think it has to be Silk, I love the look of the fabric and forever stroking it but i’m sure i would snag it somehow when sewing or cutting. Someday I’ll pluck up the courage to use it!

12. What is your ultimate garment to construct with your favourite fabric?

Now that is a question! The ultimate garment for me would be to tackle the Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns that involves Zips, Snaps, Linings and Flat Fell Seams!!

I’d probably use Navy Twill for the Outer and then a Jazzy and fun cotton lawn Lining! Fingers crossed I’ll get round to making this at some point!

Now It’s your turn! Tell me about your Fabric Addictions!

Sal xx

The post #FabricTag! 12 Questions for Fabric Addicts! appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Sorry I’ve been MIA (Missing in Action) There has been a lot going on at the moment but all will be revealed soon!!

Don’t know about you but i seem to wear my knickers to death and don’t have many pairs of nice ones to wear…. well except for these – EvieLaLuve Esme Panties where I also guide you how to make your own! So no excuses if you say making your own lingerie is hard!!

I decided to give the Bella Panties a try for a change!

I picked up this ever so gorgeous Stretch lace from Ebay for a steal at £3.65 for 2m!!

Now these are pretty simple to cut out too! Just fold your fabric Right Sides Together, making sure you have the Lace edge matching and cut out the piece so you have 2 mirrored pieces and then just 1 x Lace and 1 x Jersey for the Crotch piece!

Here are those yummy Fondant Fancies making their appearance again!

These are a very speedy sew indeedy! I would say from cutting to completing it was under 2 hours so if you haven’t had a go at making your own knickers then give Hannah’s Patterns a go they are fab and she even does kits so you don’t feel comfortable trying to source your own supplies, she takes the hard work out for you!

So here are my Bella Panties made in a Medium to give the ‘umpf’ to get my Winter weight off!! It’s a good motivator with these pretties say ‘i need wearing!!’ hahaha!

I’ve been back doing Slimming World for 2 days and feel great and even got back into Les Mills Body Combat too!

I’ve finished them with a little cute Heart Button rather than ribbon for a change!

Happy Sewing!

Sal x

The post EvieLaLuve Bella Lace Panties appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Hello Everyone! I’m back again with another Lingerie Sewing Tutorial for GirlCharlee but guess what… I’ve only used half a metre, yes half a metre of Jersey to sew myself both some beautiful Knickers and matching Bralet which is perfect for cute bedwear as i get too warm with PJ’s lol!

First up is the Tutorial for the Knickers or Panties or whatever you wanna call them!

So I’m using the Ever so gorgeous EvieLaLuDIY Esme Panties which is available here in PDF version or a Paper Version.

Now then! First of all make yourselves a brew and read the instructions and make a list of materials/equipment you need if you don’t have them already so no last minute dash to the local haberdashery store or waiting days for online orders! There isn’t anything worse than you wanting to get on with sewing when you can’t! Or you have been on the Ball and have the materials on hand!!

Material List for Panties/Knickers:

Girl Charlee Modern Reflection Paper Cut Floral Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric – Quarter of a Metre/25cm

1.2m of Stretch Lace which should be at least 7″ wide/18cm wide

1m (1.09 yd) Fold Over Elastic (FOE) – 15 mm Wide

Ballpoint Needle – I used size 80/15

Walking Foot

Gutermann Thread

Pins

Mini Clips – You’ll see why later

Measuring Tape and Ruler

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

I pre-washed the Jersey but not the lace I decided not to as a lot of people said it could distort the lace and make it harder to work with and to wash the bra/knickers after construction, so I’m following that route but of course its down to personal preference but I’d thought I would throw caution to the wind!

I bought the PDF version as I’m a bit impatient but i kinda love sticking the pages together with cellotape!!

So when printing off your pattern just remember to have your printer set to print at 100% and not set at to ‘fill page’ or at any other percentage!

Now according to the sizing and measuring myself, I’m in-between the medium/large so I cut out the Large to be on the Safe side as it can be easily adjusted.

But hey! Don’t get hung up on sizes at the end of the day this will be made by you and fits you perfectly!

Now you should have these 3 Pieces;

Now onto cutting into the yummy fabric! Remember when cutting your bum pieces that you need to place the pattern piece face down like I’ve shown here or you won’t get the lace edge at either side when sewn together!

Now to get the most of my Jersey, I only folded at about quarter of the Jersey as it doesn’t make sense to fold it in half and to lose that space!

Now you should have these fine looking pieces ready to sew!

Let the Sewing commence!

I’ve set up my machine to use a Small Zig Zag Stitch and using my Walking Foot too.

Seam Allowance is 1/4″ or 6mm unless stated otherwise

With Right Sides Together, Pin at the Centre Back Seam and Sew. The Overlock the Back Seam

Nice and neat seam

Take the front piece and Overlock or Zig Zag the two leg openings, along each curved edge.

Then turn both leg openings under by 5mm (2/8″) and press into place.

Overlock or Zig Zag the Front of the Crotch piece.

Lay the Crotch piece Right Side up on the Wrong Side of the front piece with the Crotch seams together. Tuck the Crotch piece under the finished edges of the Front piece so the two raw edges are hidden. Pin this into place and baste to ensure the Crotch doesn’t move when Top Stitching.

From the Right Side, use a Twin Needle or a Three Step Zig Zag to sew down both the turned under edges, trapping the Crotch piece in place.

To attach the Front and Back pieces at the back crotch seam, put them Right Sides Together with the Crotch Seams together. Pin and then Overlock or Zig Zag this edge.

To make the cross over detail at the side, find the two dots (one on the Stretch lace and one on the fabric) transferred from the pattern. Line them up with the Back lace piece over the front fabric piece, keeping the top edges level and pin in place. Do the same on both sides. Test fit at this point so you can adjust the overlap of the lace to ensure a perfect fit. Baste along the waist opening where the fabric and lace overlaps to secure it. Repeat this step for the other side.

Now onto the Fold Over Elastic aka FOE!

Cut the FOE approx. 1 ” shorter than the Waist opening.

Pin the Elastic to make a loop and stitch in place using 5mm (2/8″) Seam Allowance.

Pin the elastic evenly around the Waist opening, Wrong Side of the elastic to the Wrong Side of the Knickers with the edge of the fabric sitting along the fold in the middle of the Elastic. I stat by folding it in half and pin then fold that half again, pin to get 4 even quarters. Then I pin the Elastic in place first at the centre back, the sides then the front to get it nice and even.

From the RS of the fabric use a medium three step zig zag to sew this. You will need to stretch the elastic slightly as you sew.

Trim any excess fabric back to the Zig Zag stitches and remove the basting stitches. Fold the Elastic down to the Right Side of the fabric, encasing the raw edge and Top Stitch this with a Three Step Zig Zag.

Remove the basting stitches from the sides.

Hand stitch a bow to the front to finish. as it looks a little but naked otherwise!

And here we are!! One very cute pair of knickers!!!

Now Look at that cute back!!

These are one seriously comfy pair of knickers!! It’s like your not wearing any! You can’t tell that you have them on and a billy bonus is that there is no VPL!! Yay!!

Now onto the George and Ginger Bralet! With this Pattern I’ll show how to add some lace to the Straps to add a bit of girly/cuteness!

Of course a girl can’t have too much Lace, right?

Materials Required:

Girl Charlee Modern Reflection Paper Cut Floral Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric – Quarter of a Metre/25cm

Some left over lace from the Panties/Knickers approx. 1.2″ wide by

Ballpoint Needle – I used size 80/15

3/4″ Elastic – For more support if you require it

Walking Foot

Gutermann Thread

Pins

Measuring Tape and Ruler

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

This Bralet is a Free PDF version available at George and Ginger’s Facebook Group  Gotta love a freebie! On the plus side It’s only 6 Pages to print and stick too! Yay!

So when printing off your pattern just remember to have your printer set to print at 100% and not set at to ‘fill page’ or at any other percentage!

Now to cut out your pieces!

So you should have the following pieces 4 x Cup Pieces (2 of them cut with the pattern piece facing down to get a mirrored image), 2 x straps, 2 x Front Band and 1 x Back:

Seam Allowance is 1/4″ or 6mm unless stated otherwise

I set my Machine to a small Zig Zag Stitch and of course using my Trusty Walking Foot

Cut out the Darts in your size on the Front pattern piece and mark with Tailors Chalk along the Cut Lines also remember to flip the pattern piece over the mirrored pieces. Also cut little snips into the edge of the fabric where the dart lines start. These will be used to line up the dart lines for sewing. Remember to do this for all 4 pieces.

Fold the fabric Right Sides Together so that your snips line up at the edge of the fabric
and at the “point” of the Dart, forming a triangle along the fold. Pin along the Dart. I find it helps placing at pin at the end of the Dart to help me remember where it ends lol! Yeah… my chalk rubbed off a little so it was a good job I placed the pin!

Sew the Dart by starting at the little snip backstitching at the edge of the fabric, then sewing towards the point of the Dart.

At the end of the Dart point, sew past it, right off of the fabric.

Do not backstitch and leave a good amount of thread to tie a knot by hand at the end a few times then cut off the excess threads

Then repeat for the other Darts on the remaining 3 Front pieces.

Now onto making the Bralet. We will be working with both the Main Fabric and Inner so there will be 2 sets all together.

Place the Front pieces Right Sides Together. Sew the Center seam.
Press seam open.

Place the back on top of the front, Right Sides Together.

Pin the side seams together. Sew down the side seams.
Press the seams open.

Now onto the Straps!

I got 2 x lengths of Lace to the same length of the Straps by 1.2″ wide.

Fold one Strap in half widthwise, Right Sides Together.

Now if you are inserting the lace then place it in between like i’ve shown here:

Pin and sew down the long side along the raw edges.

Turn the Strap Right Side out and press the seam. The repeat for the other Strap.

Cut the Elastic the length for your size indicated in the chart in the instructions. Using a safety pin, thread the Elastic through the strap until it comes out on the other end. Baste the ends of the straps to secure the Elastic in place.

With the Main fabric Right Sides out and the Back facing you, place one Strap 5.5” (for for sizes 10-14 – for other sizes its stated in the instructions) from the Side Seam raw edge of the Strap in line with the raw edge
of the top of the back bodice. I’ve place pins to mark where they need to go Repeat for other side.

Baste the Straps in place.

Turn the Bralet around so the Front is facing you. Bring the Straps to the front. Center the end of the Strap along the flat edge of the front piece, raw edge of the Strap in line with the raw edge of the top of the front.

Repeat on the other side. Baste the Straps in place

Slide the Lining Bralet over the outer fabric Bralet, Right Sides Together. Pin all the way around the top of the Bralet and sew.

Nearly there! Just need to the add the Band!

Fold the Band in half widthwise, Right Sides Together. Pin the short side and sew. I’ve just pressed it here a little to help keep it straight

Fold the band up, Wrong Sides Together, matching up the raw edges.

Mark the Band into four equal quarters with pins, making sure one pin is on the seam of the Band.

Divide the bottom of the Bralet in the same way,

making sure one pin is on the Center Front and one on the Center Back.

Slide the Bra inside the Band, lining up the four pins, making sure the seam on the
Band is on the Back of the Bralet. Pin in between the original four pins, stretching the Band slightly all the way around.

Sew all the way around the Band. Finish the Seam and Press!

Here you go one pretty Bralet!!

Now here they are both together! Aren’t they cutest pair you have ever seen?!

A very big thank you to Mark at Girlcharlee on providing the Jersey, Hannah of EvielaluDIY for the Lace, FOE and of Course the ever so cute little bow! Also Thank you to Hannah of EvielaluDIY and Kristi of George and Ginger Patterns giving me they okay to provide a tutorial for their Patterns

Now, I hope these Tutorials has shown you that it’s not as daunting as you think to make your own lingerie.

If you need any help just give me a shout here, Instagram, My Facebook Page or Twitter

Sal xx

The post EvieLaLuve Esme Panties and George and Ginger Love Sick Bralet Tutorial appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Better late than never eh?!I’m joining in with the #theseamstresstag that is going viral around the sewing community well a couple of months ago!?

This is the brainchild of Holly from Holly Sews and I have seen various other people take part such as Claire from Penguin and Pear and Gabby from Gaberdashery.

So….on with the show!

1. Who are you?

Well I’m Sally Kendall aka The Yorkshire Sewist! I’m 31 (or as i see it 21 + 10 hahaha!) I’m married to my childhood Sweetheart Brian and we have 2 Sons. I live in East Yorkshire in the United Kingdom. I’m an Avid Sewist, Simplicity Sewing Expert and Proudly part of The Sew Crafty Design Team!

2. When & why did you start sewing?

It was back in 2014 after i got fed up with Card Making and wanted to try something new as I’ve previously made Jewellery too but got bored….again! So I’ve been sewing for nearly 3 years now and that’s a record compared to my other hobbies!

3. What is your favorite or proudest make?

My favourite make has to be dresses, you can never have enough cute dresses but my proudest make was my 1st Bra and Knickers set that i made a Tutorial for Simplicity which turned out beautifully and has spured me on to make more!

4. What is your most disastrous make?

You have to have mistakes to learn from them and oh yes there have been a few especially in my 1st year of sewing. It was figuring out what adjustments to make for certain brands of Sewing Patterns as i am petite i tend to find that i need to make a narrow back adjustment and to alter sleeves and lengths of garments! So it’s all about learning and to make a toile!

5. Where is your favourite place to go fabric shopping?

Definitely B and M Fabrics and also the indoor markets in Leeds its that bad they know me!!

6. What is your most used pattern?

I usually to try and mix things up and don’t usually make the same thing twice but i have made the DixieDIY Ballet dress 3 times now so i’m thinking that’s my favourite!

7. Your most dreaded sewing task is…

It has to be unpicking especially if I’ve been rushing and not paying attention and sewed a sleeve the wrong way round and you have to unpick all the stitching and then pin and sew again! Argghhh!!

8. And your favourite sewing task?

As weird as it sounds i love inserting invisible zips! Yes i’m peculiar but i love the end result of a lovely placed in zip!

9. What is your favourite ‘sewing entertainment’?

I don’t really have a ‘sewing entertainment’ Maybe have the TV on but i don’t watch but then i sew in the Living Room soo there is a lot of background noise from the Family!

10. Printed or PDF?

Now i love both! If i’m that eager to get sewing it right away I’ll buy pdf as long as it about 20 pages max but if its a big pattern i.e. a dress then ill wait for the paper pattern as i’ll be there all night otherwise lol.

11. What sewing machine do you use?

Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 that my hubby bought me for my 30th. Its a super duper digital machine and love the auto thread cutting feature and speed settings. Also have the Singer 14SH754 Overlocker that I’m learning to use bu it is fantastic for finishing off seams and sewing with Jersey!

12. Do you have any other hobbies?

Does Blogging and Food shopping count? lol

I’m not going to tag anyone as the majority may have already done it!, so if any of you decide to join in on your own blog, please comment below to let me know so I can have a read!

Sal xx

The post #Seamstress Tag….Better late then never appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Well this blog has only been live for a couple of months, but there has been a lot going on!! These are just my popular posts!!

November 2016:

Sew Up North 2016 – Myself and Becca’s 1st Sewing Get Together – we were that we organised!!

Giveaway celebration

My 1st Tutorial for Simplicity as a Simplicity Sewing Expert- 8228 Soft Bra and Knickers. It’s also up on Simplicity’s Blog too

December 2016:

Review of the S_Box

Signed up to Project Sew My Style 2017

Taken part in Stitching Santa 2016

Then of course receiving these beauties from my Stitching Santa Tracy aka @madaboutbags 

Taken part in Linden Swap 2016

Simple Sew Pattern Tutorials – Nancy Tunic with Contrast Cuffs, Raglan Dress, Pleated Trench Coat and Lizzie Dress

Also working with the lovely Lisa the Owner of the Avid Seamstress as a Pattern Tester for the newly realised Raglan Dress which is available to buy here. You can either make the top or the dress, 2 different sleeve options and 2 different pockets! Such a versatile pattern!

As you can tell, I’ve had a very busy couple of months of the end of 2016, so 2017 will be jammed pack full of Sewing, Pattern Testing, Organising, Meetings etc but it will be well worth it and I hope you lovely lot will join with me in my Sewing Adventures!

All the best for 2017 peeps and see you in the New Year!

Sal xx

The post 2016 in Review! appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Hello! Welcome to my 1st Tutorial for Simplicity! I’m a Simplicity Sewing Expert!!! What a Title eh?!

I’ve waited to post this on my Blog till both parts of my Tutorial was live on the Simplicity Blog.

I can finally share the beauties I’ve made!! As you will know I am an Instagram addict and have many postings of my sewing adventures and for me not to post a single thing on the construction of this was extremely hard!

What an honour when Simplicity asked me to provide a Tutorial for them! You can’t say no to such a Well Known Pattern House! When they asked me to shortlist 3 patterns to write a tutorial for, I came across the usual dress I like to sew, jersey top and then this interesting pattern by Mandalynne aka Maddie Flanigan that caught my attention! So of course I added it to my shortlist and when they came to back to me and told me they had picked the Bra and Knickers Set, I was excited and then nervous at the same time, how can I live up to Maddie’s exceptional Lingerie Sewing Skills?!! For some reason I do love to chuck myself into the deep end don’t I?!

With the good thing about this pattern is that it starts at Size 32A to 42DD and Knicker Size XS-XL so this is a good all rounder pattern that will fit many people

Now then! First open up the envelope and make yourselves a brew and read the instructions and make a list of materials/equipment you need if you don’t have them already so no last minute dash to the local haberdashery store or waiting days for online orders! There isn’t anything worse than you wanting to get on with sewing when you can’t!

Simplicity 8228 Sewing Pattern

3.6m of 8″ Wide Stretch Twin Gallon White Lace

1.5m of Bra Lining Mesh Fabric

1 x 28mm Hook and Eye back fastener

1.5m of Light Cream 1/4″ Lingerie Elastic

5m of Pink Plush Picot Elastic

0.5m of Bra Casing aka Channeling

1m of Cream Stretch Jacquard Simplex Tricot

Small piece of Jersey for the Gusset

Odif 505AD Temporary Adhesive Spray – This stuff is the bee’s knee’s!! Why I haven’t come across this till now I’ll never know! It is a definite must when making lingerie! It makes life sooo much easier

Ballpoint Needle – I used size 80/15

1/4″ Quilter’s foot to get that spot on 1/4″ Seam Allowance

Normal Sewing Foot

 Gutermann Thread

Pins and Weights

Mini Clips – You’ll see why later

Measuring Tape and Ruler

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

Scissors

After debating or not to pre-wash my fabric like I would normally do with constructing clothing, I decided not to as a lot of people said it could distort the fabric and make it harder to work with and to wash the bra/knickers after construction, so I’m following that route but of course its down to personal preference but I’d thought I would throw caution to the wind!

Now to find your perfect Bra size:

On the Instructions it will give you a Chart with measurements to calculate the Bra size you need to cut out. Please don’t refer to your normal Ready to Wear Bra sizing as i normally take a 32DD from retailers and if I had cut and sewn that it would have no way of fitted me!

My Under Chest Measurement fell into the 36 band Size Measurement and Fullest Chest Measurement fell into the D Cup Size.

Now you have your Bra Size, cut out the Pattern pieces you require, I have made Halter Bra A and I only need Pieces 1,2 and 3. Thankfully Simplicity has made this easy for you and have labelled each back size individually with the required pieces for each Bra! Yes!

The Knicker sizing is just down to your Waist Measurement and my Measurement was smack in the middle of the Medium so I cut that one out. If you are unsure of the sizing, I would make the size in a toile to make sure the fit would be okay. But I’m lucky enough know from previous experience of Simplicity Patterns that the Medium would be okay.

The Knickers require Pieces 12,13,14,15,16,17 and 18.

Warning! (sirens go off!) This step is the most important! The Lace and the Mesh are treated as one Fabric so you must follow the steps below to prepare the fabric;

For ease of use, Cut the mesh into strips that cover the pattern pieces like I’ve shown below, so one mesh piece to cover one set of the Bra pieces, another for the other set of Bra pieces then one Piece to cover the Band.

Then cut the Gallon lace to the same sizes of the pieces of mesh then get ready to get messy hahahaha!

Now make sure you have a mat or some newspaper or ought to cover your surfaces as this Spray Adhesive is quite sticky!

Spray the Mesh evenly, from one edge to the other and place the wrong side of the Gallon Lace over the Mesh so that the right Side of the lace is facing you and to make sure that the inner points of the scallops are even with the raw edge of the mesh like I’ve shown here:

Now to get the pattern pieces cleanly cut, I’ve used my own handmade weights out of polymer clay or anything that is heavy will do as long it wont shift your pattern piece about whilst cutting. Also used a Rotary Cutter too as it’ll be quite hard to get that perfect clean cut otherwise.

Now your thinking maybe if the fold the lace/mesh fabric Right Sides Together, I would get my pattern pieces cut out in no time. Personally, I wouldn’t like to risk it, I cut out my pieces all in one layer….yes it may be time consuming but at least you know it has been cut out with care with a nice clean edge

Just a little tip when cutting out the Bra Pattern Pieces out as they as one set is cut out with the pattern piece face down and the other is pattern piece facing up. I placed a piece of fabric round the face Down Pattern Pieces so i knew which was which.

For the Bottom Band, Line up your inner Scallops to the Raw edge of the mesh as you don’t need to worry about matching the rest as it will be cut away.

Then you should have the following Pieces for constructing the Bra, together with the haberdashery bits:

Hurray! now onto sewing the Halter Neck Bra!

Remember the Seam Allowance is 1/4″ or 6mm if you use Metric system until otherwise told so in the Instructions. That’s why I’ll be using my Quilter’s foot as that is just made for 1/4″ Seams so you just keep to the edge of the foot

Step 1. With Right Sides Together, pin the Cup Front (Pattern Piece 1) to Cup Side Front (Pattern Piece 2), remembering to match up the dots and notches and stitch in place and press the Seam towards the centre. Repeat for other set of Bra Pieces.

Step 2. With the Right Side of the Bra Facing you, Top Stitch the Cup front using a 3cm wide Zig Zag Stitch or Straight Stitch  ( I prefer Zig Zag) away from the initial Seam in Step 1 but to make sure it catches the Seam Allowance and that it doesn’t look ugly (Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!)– To Help guide you, I’ve placed my seam to the split in my normal sewing foot and that the Zig Zag Stitch will be close enough to the seam but will catch the outer edge of it like this shown below and repeat for other Cup Front.

Step 3. Cut a Piece of the Lingerie elastic to the length of the Cup Front Edge, on the Inside (The Wrong Side Facing you) place the elastic along the mesh edge and sew though the centre of the Elastic using (3mm wide) Zig Zag Stitch.

Cut another Piece of the Lingerie elastic to the length of the Cup Side Front Edge, on the Inside (The Wrong Side Facing you) place the elastic along the mesh edge and sew though the centre of the Elastic using (3mm wide) Zig Zag Stitch. Repeat for other Set. So you will have 2 Cups with Elastic sewn down both sides.

Step 4. Cut a Piece of Plush Picot Elastic to the length of the underarm edge of the bridge to the end of the band like shown here:

On the Outside (Right Side Facing you), place the elastic on the underarm edge, having the flat edge of the elastic match the raw edge of the lace/mesh. Stitch as close as you can to the Picot edge using a (3cm)Zig Zag stitch, stretching the elastic slightly as you sew.

Step 5. Turn the Elastic to the Inside (wrong Side of the Fabric). Stitch the Elastic close to the inner edge using the same Zig Zag Stitch as in Step 4.

Look at the nice Picot edging!

Step 6. With The Right Sides Together, pin the Bra Cups to the Bridge and Band, matching the centres and small dots. Switch back to your Quilter’s Foot as you’ll be need 1/4″ Seam Allowance. Then Stitch from one end to the Centre. Then Stitch from the other end to the Centre. Remembering to keep the outer edges of the cup away from the Seam Allowance.

Step 7. Cut two pieces of the Channeling to the length of the Lower Edge of the Bra Cup Seam Allowance. On the Inside (Wrong Side Facing you) pin the inner edge of the Channeling to the Seam Allowance close to the Seam Line. Stitch close to the inner edge of the Channeling. Then start sewing from one edge to the centre and repeat for the other side, the Channeling will overlap at the Centre Front.

Step 8. Press the Seam and Channeling towards the Bridge.  On the Outside (Right Side Facing you), Top Stitch away from the Seam, Stitching through all layers and catching the Channeling on the inside.

Step 9. Close the Channeling by using a Zig Zag stitch across it at the centre front and the underarm (Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!). Trim the Channeling so that its flush with the underarm edge, being careful not to cut through the Lace or Picot.

Step 10. Now to add the Hook and Eye Fastener. Open out the opening of the Eye end of the Fastener. Slip in 1/2″ (1.3cm) of the Left Band into the Open end of the Fastener with the Eyes on the Outside (They are facing you). Stitch close to the opening edge of the fastener through all thicknesses (Fastener and Lace/Mesh).

Open out the Hook end of the Bra Fastener, Again, Slip 1/2″ (1.3cm) of the Right band into the open end of the Fastener with the Hooks on the Inside (Facing Away from you). Stitch close to the opening edge of the fastener through all thicknesses (Fastener and Lace/Mesh)

Step 11.  Try on the Bra. Make any adjustment at the Centre Back Neck Seam, if necessary. I needed too upon trying it on and I took 1″ 3/4 off each side.  With Right Sides Together, stitch the Centre Back Neck Seam. Trim the seam 1/4″ (6mm) if necessary ( I did anyways I felt it give it a better finish after Step 12.)

Step 12. On the Outside (Right Side Facing you) Top Stitch using a Zig Zag stitch close to the Seam (Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!) and that it covers the edge of the Seam Allowance for a Neat and tidy Finish.

And Voila! Here is one Super Comfy Soft Bra as modelled by Dorris the Mannequin. I’m sorry but I don’t think the world is ready to see my goodies on show I may break the internet.

One down and one to go! Now onto the Knickers or for the American friends Panties!

Thankfully you don’t have to do the fiddly construction of treating the Lace and Mesh as one.  So you need the Lace for Pattern Pieces 14 and 16, Stretch Jacquard Simplex Tricot for Pieces 12 and 15 and a small amount of 100% Cotton Jersey for the Gusset. Pattern Pieces 17 and 18 are just Guides for the Leg and Waist Elastic.

I would recommend cutting the Leg and Waist Elastic now as it just saves cutting out things again once you’ve already cut out the fabrics

Then your Knicker Supplies should look like this ready to sew!

Step 1. Zig zag stitch the Front edges of the Knickers front (Pattern Piece 12) and Upper edges of Knickers Back (Pattern Piece 15) – Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!. This is to finish the edges to stop them fraying and to also give it a nice professional finish. I’ve used the following stitch length and wide:

Step 2. On the Outside (Right Side Facing you) place the Wrong Side of the Lace Panels, Knickers Side Front (Pattern Piece 14) to the Right Side of Knicker Front, lapping Front Edge of the Side Front over the Front, matching the 1/4″ (6mm) Seam Allowance. Pin, placing pins on the Outside (The Right Side Facing you) and making sure you catch both the Lace and the Knicker Fabric. Stitch along the Seam Line using a 1/8″ (3mm) Wide Zig Zag Stitch or Straight Stitch.

*Just to help you a little tip I found to get the straight Seam Line for Step 2. I transferred my pins to the other side (Inside/Wrong Side facing you) so that edge of the Knicker fabric was visible and a lot easier to get the straight Seam Line.*

Step 3. Right Sides Together, stitch the Centre Back Seam of the Knickers Side Back (Pattern Piece 16)- Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!. Press the Seam towards one side.

Step 4. On the Outside (Right Side facing you), Switch back to your Normal Sewing Foot and Top Stitch using a Zig Zag stitch close to the Seam so that it covers the edge of the Seam Allowance underneath for a Neat and tidy Finish.

Step 5. Place the Wrong Side of the Knickers Side Back (Pattern Piece 16) to the Right Side of the Knickers Back (Pattern Piece 15). lapping Lower Back edge of the Side Back over the Back, matching the Centres and matching the 1/4″ (6mm) Seam Allowance. Pin, placing pins on the Outside (The Right Side Facing you) and making sure you catch both the Lace and the Knicker Fabric. Stitch along the Seam Line using a 1/8″ (3mm) Wide Zig Zag Stitch or Straight Stitch. Refer to my helpful tip after Step 2 if you need a little assistance to get it aligned. Also when you get to the Centre V remember to stop sewing before you get to the end and keep your needle in the fabric, Lift up the Foot and Pivot your fabric to continue to sew on the other side.

Step 6. Zig Zag stitch the front un-notched edge of the Crotch lining (Pattern Piece 13) – Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot! This is to the finish the edge.

Step 7. With Right Sides Together, Place the Knicker Back over Knicker front at the Crotch Seam Line, matching the notches, making sure the Raw Edges are even.

Step 8. Stitch the Front to the Back at the Side Seam, using a Straight Stitch then finish with a Zig Zag stitch close to the raw edges of the Seam Allowance then press the Seam toward the Front of the Knickers.

Step 9. Press the Crotch lining and pin to the Inside of the Knicker front, placing the Pins on the Outside and making sure that the Raw edges are even.

Cut two pieces of the Picot edge elastic of the length of the Leg Elastic Guide (Pattern Piece 18). Or as we prepared earlier at the beginning, Blue Peter Style!

On the Outside (Right Side of the Knickers) place the elastic on the Leg Edge, having the flat edge of the elastix extend by 1/8″ (3mm) beyond the outer edge, making sure you have the plush side of the elastic Facing you and lapping the ends by 1/2″ (1.3cm) at the Back just above the Crotch Seam.

* Tip time! Start at the Overlap part at the Crotch Seam then Pin then find the middle by folding the Elastic in half and finding the halfway mark on the kickers by folding them too then pin the Elastic. I just find it easier to insert knicker Elastic this way to make sure it evenly placed.*

Stitch close to the Picot Edge, using a 1/8″ (3mm) Wide Zig Zag Stitch being careful not to stretch the Elastic as you sew.

Step 10. Turn the elastic to the Inside. Stitch the elastic Close to the Inner edge using the Zig Zag Stitch.

Step 11. Cut a piece of the Plush Picot elastic the Length of the Knicker Waist Elastic Guide (Pattern Piece 17). Or as we prepared earlier at the beginning, Blue Peter Style!

Apply the Elastic to the Waistline in the same manner as for the legs and have the Elastic lap at one of the Side Seams.

Oh there you go!!! You now have a matching Bra and Knickers lovingly made by you!! Well of course these we made by moi!

Now then! Taking on your on own Lingerie is not as scary as you think is it?! I am really pleased of the outcome for both of them! To say I’ve not really used Lace to sew with it was quite easy to sew with as my Mr Singer does like to eat finer fabric but he has behaved for a change!

I can see myself making more of these as they are simple to do once you have made one and made it to fit you These will be my sleep wear for bed, Yes they are that comfy!!

A very Big Thank you to Kellie at The Sewing Chest for providing me the lovely materials to make this set! She is fantastic, if you need any advice she’s the woman to go too and very speedy delivery too!

Now, I hope this Tutorial has shown you that it’s not as daunting as you think to make your own.

If you need any help just give me a shout here, Instagram, My Facebook Page or Twitter

Sal xx

The post Simplicity 8228 Soft Cup Bra and Knickers Tutorial appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.