In Issue 40 of Simply Sewing Magazine there was a fantastic freebie pattern by Tilly and The Buttons – The Stella Hoodie!! It’s also available from her new Book – Stretch! Make yourself Comfortable Sewing with Knit Fabrics.

Truth be told, I’ve not had much look with Tilly’s patterns in the past but on a whim i decided to give them another go and I’m glad i did!!

GirlCharlee has kindly provided me with the softest French Terry in Teal that i have ever come across! It’s a bargain at £10.96 per metre! It even behaved really well on my Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 and Singer Overlocker so a def winner in my eyes!

I had a rummage through my stash too as i wanted to add a bit of pop to my hoodie and thankfully i had some left over Grey Floral Cotton Jersey from January’s Sew My Style of the Sunny Top.

According to my measurements I need a size 4 and i risked it by not making a toile but as the saying goes “risk it for a biscuit” and I’m glad I did as it saved myself time and the fit is great! but I wouldn’t recommend it if you do have to grade between sizes as making a toile would make sure you had the perfect fit.

I used my Overlocker for the majority of the construction of this Hoodie as i am sucker for nice neat lines inside and out. Doesn’t hurt have a glass of wine as a companion either, especially when the football is on! Hahaha!

I love my Automatic Buttonhole feature on my machine as it makes buttonholes a breeze and remember if you are using jersey to interface the back of your fabric to stabilise it and to achieve a great buttonhole.

The only thing I did change was that rather have a normal cuff, I wanted thumbholes! Since the weather is still naff and i wanted to try something new!

I’ll show you how to do this! It’s rather simple but uber effective!

I had to shorten the sleeve itself by 2 inches but that’s me with short arms so best check where the cuff would be by pinning the folded cuff piece to the sleeve using 1.5cm seam allowance for guidance.

First of all I pinned the cuff piece in place and added an extra 3″ to the height of the piece.

Take one cuff and pin so that the raw edges meet, right sides together. Now mark 1″ away from the edges at the top and bottom of the cuff and then measure 1.5″ (that will be your thumbhole) so once folded they will line up when you fold the cuffs.

Sew the seam using 1.5cm seam allowance, stopping and backtacking on either side of the holes to leave them open. Start at one end to the 1st pin, remembering to backsticth and then continue on from the 2nd pin as you will need this gap for your thumbhole and repeat to the end of the seam.

I graded my seam allowance down by half and pressed the seam open.

Fold the cuffs with wrong sides together, lining up the thumbholes. Pin together along either side of the holes and along the seam. Yeah… I go overboard with Pins!

This next step is a little awkward on your machine. I flipped my cuff so that the pins were in the inside and gently eased the rest o the cuff away whilst sewing. Sew 1/4″ from the seam from end to end, closing up the sides of the thumbholes. Repeat on other cuff.

Add a bartack at either end of the thumbholes to secure this stress point.

Ta-dah! You now have a thumbhole cuffs! Yay! Can you believe that’s all there is to it!

Just remeber when attaching the cuffs that the thumbhole and seam match to the sleeve seam or you will end up with the thumbholes wrong way round.

Tilly’s instructions are great for making this hoodie and i’m thinking I need a copy of her book as the patterns look fantastix and that this one has fitted really well it’s given me the confidence to try the patterns again! So win win!

I finished the hoodie by using aqua 1.5cm wide cotton tape that I bought from eBay for 99p, gotta love a bargain!

I hope you like this little tutorial on making your own thumbhole cuffs, I have a feeling I’ll be making all long sleeve tops like this now ?

Now here is the finished result hung up.

Of course moi wearing my new secret pj top, it’s soo comfy yet pretty with the floral accents!

Happy Sewing!

Sal xx

The post Tilly and The Buttons Stella Hoody and a Thumbhole Hack appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Hi All! I haven’t posted a Tutorial for a while so i thought I’d share with you a nice looking Zip Bag which is quite roomy for a range of uses! But this is one is going to a Friend who needs a little bit of cheering up after a rough few weeks. I’m hoping that this will help! It seems the most annoying thing about pouches using Zips that I’ve seen or made in the past are those pesky corners. Don’t know about you but i hate seeing the ends of zips and it looks a bit odd with the zip ‘jumping out’ of the pouch and it doesn’t look nice and neat. Sorry i think i have an OCD about it!

The zip is not actually sewn into the side seam – the tab encases the ends of the zip. Then the sides are sewn with the lining in place – there’s no bulky stuffing used for lining inside the pouch just interfacing. Bias binding is used to cover the raw edges inside the Bag for a neat finish. Supplies:

• 0.5m (50cm) Fabric for outside of pouch I’ve used Art Gallery Wonderland Petal Flamingos in Coo
• 0.5m (50cm) Fabric for lining I’ve used Liberty Fabric Tana Lawn Mitsi Valeria B
• 0.5m (50cm) Interfacing – I’ve used Medium Interfacing as i wanted it to be sturdy yet soft.
• Zip 11″ (28cm) or longer as you can soon shorten it.
• Basic sewing supplies:
  • Thread and a full Bobbin – nothing worse that running out mid way through a seam!
  • Scissors – If your aren’t using a Rotary Cutter and Mat.
  • Rotary Cutter and Mat.
  • Pins
  • Tape Measure – I love the cuteness of this retractable tape with the polka dot finish and it measures up to a whopping 150cm aka 1.5m!!
  • Marking Tool – This Pen by Prym is the best marking tool I’ve used as it chalks out soo easily and preciously and in a handy pen format so no more broken tailors chalk pieces everywhere or on your hands!

Cutting out time! Cut all of the following – Each Piece measures 11″ x 8 3/4″ ( 28cm x 22cm):

• 2 x Outer fabric
• 2 x Lining fabric
• 4 x Interfacing
• Two squares 2″ x 2″ (4cm x 4cm) for the zip tabs

For the Bias Binding, cut from lining fabric a strip 1 1/8″ x 20″ (3cm x 51cm) if you don’t have enough length to make it one go you can always precut the Binding to the length of the side seams – 7″ (15cm) x 2 and Bottom Seams 3″ (7cm) x 2. Four strips in total. Fuse interfacing to the outer pouch pieces and the lining pieces.

Right, let’s get Making! On the Outer Pieces, mark 1/4″from each edge on the Top of the Piece on the Right side of the Fabric. Trust me you will need this later! Cut out 1.5″(3.8cm) Square from the lower edge of each Outer Pieces. Repeat for the Lining Pieces also.

Making the Zip Tabs: With your 2″ (4cm) Squares,Fold in Half, Press and then fold again so that one end of the square is now folded nicely with no raw edges on show.

At the end of the zip, mark 1/4″ (0.6cm) away above where the zip ends and chop off the excess.

With Right Sides Together, line up the edge of the zip with the raw edge of the Zip Tab Square. Make sure the folded edge is not being sewn. Stitch along the zip using a 1cm Seam allowance.

Fold the Tab up and over the end of the Zip and that the folded edge underneath matches the top and stitch in place as near as you can to the edge and to make sure you catch both the top and underneath of the Tab to secure in place. Trim the Tab to slightly wider than the Zip itself. There you go, one Zip Tab made! Now to repeat for the other end of the Zip!

Just look of how pretty that the Tape looks now! Next up, attaching the Zip to the Pouch! Place the Zip Right Side down on the Top edge of the Outer Piece and make sure that the Zip ends match up with the marks on the Pouch that we made earlier. Then pin in place and stitch along using 1/4″ (0.6cm) Seam Allowance.

With the Right Sides Together, place the Lining Piece over the Zip, matching the raw edge of the Pieces and pin in place. Make sure that the Zip is in between the Outer Piece and the Lining Piece just like a sandwich. Then flip it over so that the Outer Piece is on top and stitch in place using the previous stitching as a guide to sew in place.

Press the Pouch Outer and lining away from the Zip and that’s one side down and now to repeat on the other side with the last remaining pieces.

Now onto Sewing the Pouch together! Open up the pouch so that the Linings are Right Sides Together and the Outer Piece are Right Sides Together too. Pin along the bottom edge and Sew together using 1/4″ (0.6cm) Seam Allowance. Then press the Seam open.

Turn and flip the lining over the Outer Fabric so that the Lining is on show. Make sure that the Zip is opened 1″ (2.5cm) to make sure you can open the zip after sewing the Side Seams. Pin the Side Seam from the top corner of the Square Cut out to the top of the Pouch using a 1/4″ (o.6cm) Seam Allowance and make sure don’t sew through the Zip Tab by accident.

Now to Finish the Seams! From the Strip we cut out earlier or if you have already cut down the strip to sizes required, it’s time to make into Bias binding. Cut the Binding to the length of the side seams – 7″ (15cm) x 2 and Bottom Seams 3″ (7cm) x 2. So you have Four strips in total. Fold one strip length ways Wrong Sides Together and Press. Open the strip up so you can see the crease that has been formed along the centre. Bring the top edge to meet the centre crease and Press. Bring the bottom edge to meet the centre crease and press. Give your bias strip one more press from the right side and there you go all ready to attach to the seams! Pin the Binding in place matching the raw edge of the Side Seam with the long Edge of the Binding and stitch using 1/4″ (0.6) or follow that the crease. Trim the Seam Allowance a little as this will help for the Binding to fold over easier and then pin in place and Sew as near as you can to the edge to secure. Repeat for the other Side Seam.

We are nearly there! Now to Finish the Bottom. Pinch the Bottom of the Pouch so that the Side Seam matches the Bottom Seam and the Corner Cut out is flat. Press the Side Seam to one side and then pin and Sew using a 1/4″ (0.6cm) Seam Allowance. Then finish the Bottom Seam with the Bias Binding the same way as the Side Seam. Repeat for the other side. All we have to do now is is turn the pouch out to the Right Side, push the corners out gently with your fingers and here you go! One beautiful neat pouch! Beautiful both inside and out!

The finished Measurements are 10″ (26cm) Width at the widest point at the top and is 6 3/4″ (17cm) High. So there you go folks, i hope this has sparked your interest to make your own Pretty Pouch! With this tutorial, i am entering the competition to be a Prym Ambassador. I feel that I’ve shown little tricks on making it look high end, so it’s nicely finished inside and out. Prym products allows me to utilise my skills better with accurate measuring and precision marking where i have made this Pretty Zip Pouch from Scratch without a Pattern. I would love the opportunity to work with Prym and show people what they can make in no time at all. Happy new Year too! Happy Sewing! Sal xx

The post Pretty Zip Pouch Tutorial appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Hello Everyone! I’m back again with another Lingerie Sewing Tutorial for GirlCharlee but guess what… I’ve only used half a metre, yes half a metre of Jersey to sew myself both some beautiful Knickers and matching Bralet which is perfect for cute bedwear as i get too warm with PJ’s lol!

First up is the Tutorial for the Knickers or Panties or whatever you wanna call them!

So I’m using the Ever so gorgeous EvieLaLuDIY Esme Panties which is available here in PDF version or a Paper Version.

Now then! First of all make yourselves a brew and read the instructions and make a list of materials/equipment you need if you don’t have them already so no last minute dash to the local haberdashery store or waiting days for online orders! There isn’t anything worse than you wanting to get on with sewing when you can’t! Or you have been on the Ball and have the materials on hand!!

Material List for Panties/Knickers:

Girl Charlee Modern Reflection Paper Cut Floral Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric – Quarter of a Metre/25cm

1.2m of Stretch Lace which should be at least 7″ wide/18cm wide

1m (1.09 yd) Fold Over Elastic (FOE) – 15 mm Wide

Ballpoint Needle – I used size 80/15

Walking Foot

Gutermann Thread

Pins

Mini Clips – You’ll see why later

Measuring Tape and Ruler

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

I pre-washed the Jersey but not the lace I decided not to as a lot of people said it could distort the lace and make it harder to work with and to wash the bra/knickers after construction, so I’m following that route but of course its down to personal preference but I’d thought I would throw caution to the wind!

I bought the PDF version as I’m a bit impatient but i kinda love sticking the pages together with cellotape!!

So when printing off your pattern just remember to have your printer set to print at 100% and not set at to ‘fill page’ or at any other percentage!

Now according to the sizing and measuring myself, I’m in-between the medium/large so I cut out the Large to be on the Safe side as it can be easily adjusted.

But hey! Don’t get hung up on sizes at the end of the day this will be made by you and fits you perfectly!

Now you should have these 3 Pieces;

Now onto cutting into the yummy fabric! Remember when cutting your bum pieces that you need to place the pattern piece face down like I’ve shown here or you won’t get the lace edge at either side when sewn together!

Now to get the most of my Jersey, I only folded at about quarter of the Jersey as it doesn’t make sense to fold it in half and to lose that space!

Now you should have these fine looking pieces ready to sew!

Let the Sewing commence!

I’ve set up my machine to use a Small Zig Zag Stitch and using my Walking Foot too.

Seam Allowance is 1/4″ or 6mm unless stated otherwise

With Right Sides Together, Pin at the Centre Back Seam and Sew. The Overlock the Back Seam

Nice and neat seam

Take the front piece and Overlock or Zig Zag the two leg openings, along each curved edge.

Then turn both leg openings under by 5mm (2/8″) and press into place.

Overlock or Zig Zag the Front of the Crotch piece.

Lay the Crotch piece Right Side up on the Wrong Side of the front piece with the Crotch seams together. Tuck the Crotch piece under the finished edges of the Front piece so the two raw edges are hidden. Pin this into place and baste to ensure the Crotch doesn’t move when Top Stitching.

From the Right Side, use a Twin Needle or a Three Step Zig Zag to sew down both the turned under edges, trapping the Crotch piece in place.

To attach the Front and Back pieces at the back crotch seam, put them Right Sides Together with the Crotch Seams together. Pin and then Overlock or Zig Zag this edge.

To make the cross over detail at the side, find the two dots (one on the Stretch lace and one on the fabric) transferred from the pattern. Line them up with the Back lace piece over the front fabric piece, keeping the top edges level and pin in place. Do the same on both sides. Test fit at this point so you can adjust the overlap of the lace to ensure a perfect fit. Baste along the waist opening where the fabric and lace overlaps to secure it. Repeat this step for the other side.

Now onto the Fold Over Elastic aka FOE!

Cut the FOE approx. 1 ” shorter than the Waist opening.

Pin the Elastic to make a loop and stitch in place using 5mm (2/8″) Seam Allowance.

Pin the elastic evenly around the Waist opening, Wrong Side of the elastic to the Wrong Side of the Knickers with the edge of the fabric sitting along the fold in the middle of the Elastic. I stat by folding it in half and pin then fold that half again, pin to get 4 even quarters. Then I pin the Elastic in place first at the centre back, the sides then the front to get it nice and even.

From the RS of the fabric use a medium three step zig zag to sew this. You will need to stretch the elastic slightly as you sew.

Trim any excess fabric back to the Zig Zag stitches and remove the basting stitches. Fold the Elastic down to the Right Side of the fabric, encasing the raw edge and Top Stitch this with a Three Step Zig Zag.

Remove the basting stitches from the sides.

Hand stitch a bow to the front to finish. as it looks a little but naked otherwise!

And here we are!! One very cute pair of knickers!!!

Now Look at that cute back!!

These are one seriously comfy pair of knickers!! It’s like your not wearing any! You can’t tell that you have them on and a billy bonus is that there is no VPL!! Yay!!

Now onto the George and Ginger Bralet! With this Pattern I’ll show how to add some lace to the Straps to add a bit of girly/cuteness!

Of course a girl can’t have too much Lace, right?

Materials Required:

Girl Charlee Modern Reflection Paper Cut Floral Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric – Quarter of a Metre/25cm

Some left over lace from the Panties/Knickers approx. 1.2″ wide by

Ballpoint Needle – I used size 80/15

3/4″ Elastic – For more support if you require it

Walking Foot

Gutermann Thread

Pins

Measuring Tape and Ruler

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

This Bralet is a Free PDF version available at George and Ginger’s Facebook Group  Gotta love a freebie! On the plus side It’s only 6 Pages to print and stick too! Yay!

So when printing off your pattern just remember to have your printer set to print at 100% and not set at to ‘fill page’ or at any other percentage!

Now to cut out your pieces!

So you should have the following pieces 4 x Cup Pieces (2 of them cut with the pattern piece facing down to get a mirrored image), 2 x straps, 2 x Front Band and 1 x Back:

Seam Allowance is 1/4″ or 6mm unless stated otherwise

I set my Machine to a small Zig Zag Stitch and of course using my Trusty Walking Foot

Cut out the Darts in your size on the Front pattern piece and mark with Tailors Chalk along the Cut Lines also remember to flip the pattern piece over the mirrored pieces. Also cut little snips into the edge of the fabric where the dart lines start. These will be used to line up the dart lines for sewing. Remember to do this for all 4 pieces.

Fold the fabric Right Sides Together so that your snips line up at the edge of the fabric
and at the “point” of the Dart, forming a triangle along the fold. Pin along the Dart. I find it helps placing at pin at the end of the Dart to help me remember where it ends lol! Yeah… my chalk rubbed off a little so it was a good job I placed the pin!

Sew the Dart by starting at the little snip backstitching at the edge of the fabric, then sewing towards the point of the Dart.

At the end of the Dart point, sew past it, right off of the fabric.

Do not backstitch and leave a good amount of thread to tie a knot by hand at the end a few times then cut off the excess threads

Then repeat for the other Darts on the remaining 3 Front pieces.

Now onto making the Bralet. We will be working with both the Main Fabric and Inner so there will be 2 sets all together.

Place the Front pieces Right Sides Together. Sew the Center seam.
Press seam open.

Place the back on top of the front, Right Sides Together.

Pin the side seams together. Sew down the side seams.
Press the seams open.

Now onto the Straps!

I got 2 x lengths of Lace to the same length of the Straps by 1.2″ wide.

Fold one Strap in half widthwise, Right Sides Together.

Now if you are inserting the lace then place it in between like i’ve shown here:

Pin and sew down the long side along the raw edges.

Turn the Strap Right Side out and press the seam. The repeat for the other Strap.

Cut the Elastic the length for your size indicated in the chart in the instructions. Using a safety pin, thread the Elastic through the strap until it comes out on the other end. Baste the ends of the straps to secure the Elastic in place.

With the Main fabric Right Sides out and the Back facing you, place one Strap 5.5” (for for sizes 10-14 – for other sizes its stated in the instructions) from the Side Seam raw edge of the Strap in line with the raw edge
of the top of the back bodice. I’ve place pins to mark where they need to go Repeat for other side.

Baste the Straps in place.

Turn the Bralet around so the Front is facing you. Bring the Straps to the front. Center the end of the Strap along the flat edge of the front piece, raw edge of the Strap in line with the raw edge of the top of the front.

Repeat on the other side. Baste the Straps in place

Slide the Lining Bralet over the outer fabric Bralet, Right Sides Together. Pin all the way around the top of the Bralet and sew.

Nearly there! Just need to the add the Band!

Fold the Band in half widthwise, Right Sides Together. Pin the short side and sew. I’ve just pressed it here a little to help keep it straight

Fold the band up, Wrong Sides Together, matching up the raw edges.

Mark the Band into four equal quarters with pins, making sure one pin is on the seam of the Band.

Divide the bottom of the Bralet in the same way,

making sure one pin is on the Center Front and one on the Center Back.

Slide the Bra inside the Band, lining up the four pins, making sure the seam on the
Band is on the Back of the Bralet. Pin in between the original four pins, stretching the Band slightly all the way around.

Sew all the way around the Band. Finish the Seam and Press!

Here you go one pretty Bralet!!

Now here they are both together! Aren’t they cutest pair you have ever seen?!

A very big thank you to Mark at Girlcharlee on providing the Jersey, Hannah of EvielaluDIY for the Lace, FOE and of Course the ever so cute little bow! Also Thank you to Hannah of EvielaluDIY and Kristi of George and Ginger Patterns giving me they okay to provide a tutorial for their Patterns

Now, I hope these Tutorials has shown you that it’s not as daunting as you think to make your own lingerie.

If you need any help just give me a shout here, Instagram, My Facebook Page or Twitter

Sal xx

The post EvieLaLuve Esme Panties and George and Ginger Love Sick Bralet Tutorial appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Now this is one of my earlier Tutorials from my previous blog, so I apologise now for the lack of proper lighting shots!

Welcome to my Tutorial for Simple Sew’s Raglan Dress, which of course is a part of the Capsule Wardrobe Collection ?

I’m showing you how to make this Dress in Jersey so it is a quick and easy make with no zip insertions so It’s great if your new to sewing but if you are making this Dress in a cotton fabric you’ll need to apply interfacing to your neck facings and to insert an invisible zip but I’ve show you how to do that in my Nancy Tunic Tutorial .

As always make sure you launder your fabric prior to you starting to cut your pattern pieces out as this allows for shrinkage as it would be a complete shame not to do this before hand and to make an awesome staple Dress, wear it and love it then to put in the wash where it’ll shrink and the dress would be too small to wear!

First open up the envelope and make yourself a brew and read the instructions and make a list of materials/equipment you need if you don’t have them already so no last minute dash to the local haberdashery store or waiting days for online orders lol!

My Construction list:

Simple Sew Raglan Dress Pattern

2.5m of the ever so beautiful Art Gallery Petal & Plume Panache Profundo Knit from WhitreeFabrics. It’s a 95% Premium Cotton and 5% Spandex Knit and its 60″ wide which was perfect weight for this dress and feels really nice too!

Guterman Thread – There’s no other thread like it in my opinion, you do need good quality thread as it does show in your creations.

Paper Scissors – For cutting Pattern Pieces out as these will blunt and make cutting fabric out quite uneven!

Fabric Scissors/ Rotary Cutter

Cutting Mat

Pins

Tailor’s Chalk – For marking on fabric that soon rubs away

French Curve – handy for getting those straight lines whilst tracing or to grade in between sizes if your measurements are in between sizes.

Pencil for marking out the pattern of course

Iron and Ironing Board

And last but not least the Trusty Sewing Machine, Normal sewing foot

Now then, you can go ahead and cut straight into the paper pattern to the size you require  and to make sure you add any nothces/markings onto the paper then cut out the pieces?

According to my measurements i had to grade to 14 for the hips but Size 12 for the Bust and Waist (too much eating and not enough exercise lol!) but that is easy enough to do like I’m going to show you here:

The Waist point of this dress is the middle of the double pointed dart and shown here is where i have marked on the pattern to start grading to the 14.

Now you can see here I’ve drawn a slight curve from the waist and graded it to the 14 mark and then carried on that line to the bottom of the dress  so its not just a huge jump and for it to look like its meant to be 

Remember to do the same for the back piece too

Now after grading if you needed to, you should have the following pattern pieces:

1 x Front Piece, 1 x Back Piece, 1 x Sleeve, 1 x Front Neck Facing and 1 x Back Neck Facing

Now with myself making the Jersey version of this dress i don’t need to add any interfacing to the Neck Facings? and when it comes to cutting out the Back Bodice Piece:

Fold at the Line where it says cut here for Jersey fabrics and with myself following the pattern of my fabric i’d placed the Back Bodice Piece face down so you will still have the right way of the pattern on my fabric to your other pieces and also for ease as I am using Jersey i’d place the pattern on the fold of the fabric rather than having 2 separate back bodice pieces as we don’t need a zip for this version!

Fold the fabric Right Sides Together selvedge to selvedge and places the pattern pieces on the top. Align the straight grain line on the pattern piece to grain of the fabric and pin down the pieces.

Then of course cut away!

Now onto Sewing the Darts!

A handy tip for the darts i put a pin through the paper and fabric then gently pull away the paper to leave the pin in the fabric then match up the lines to the bottom of the dart with tailors chalk for ease of sewing.

Now with Darts, I tend to start from where the Dart ends so its easier to keep that perfect sewn line just to remember don’t back stitch here just tie the ends together as this prevents the dart looking bulky not a good look to have madonna style points LOL! But back stitch at the end of the dart (the widest bit) to secure.

Now repeat for the other side and  press them so that they are facing the centre, now onto the Diamond Darts!

Now these can be a bit fiddler to sew as you start from the middle of the dart then sew all the way to the end and then repeat gain from the middle to the other end. So remember not to back stitch at the middle and at the ends like I’ve shown here and just make a knot?

Now you should have the Front Bodice with 2 bust darts and 2 Diamond Darts and the Back Bodice has 2 Diamond Darts

Now with the Right Side Together attach front side of sleeve to front bodice. Remember the notches? Now its easier enough to match up the single notch with the single notch of the front bodice. Repeat for the other sleeve.Press the seam open. Then finish the seams, I’ve used my pinking shears as I’m using Jesery but if i was using cotton i would use a zig zag stitch to neaten them so they wouldn’t fray.

With Right Side Together attach back bodice sleeve to the back side of the sleeve. Remember to match up he double notches? and repeat for the other side, press the seam open and neaten the seams.

Now to sew together the Neck facing with Right Sides Together like shown below:

Right Sides Together with the Bodice pin neck facing in place and then stitch all the way around from centre back to centre back like shown below.

Snip into seam allowance all the way around, stopping at the stitch line, this will allow facing to lie flat. Turn facing through to inside of dress and press flat.

Right Sides Together stitch all the way from the sleeve hem to the skirt hem to close the side seams of the dress, press the seams and neaten. Repeat for both sides.

Woo-hoo nearly there! Now onto the hemming sleeves, now with myself only being petite the sleeves were far to long for my liking so i had to take 3 inches of mine but if you are of normal statue I’m sure the sleeve length would be okay?

Turn up sleeve hem by 1cm, press and stitch in place, press and neaten.

Turn up skirt hem by 1cm, press, stitch in place and neaten the edges. Now i didn’t have to take any length off this and I’m only short so it’d best be wise to give the bodice pattern pieces a measure to see where it’ll come to for your preferred length.

And voila! Here is your super quick and easy Raglan Dress!

A big Thank you to Whitree Fabrics for supplying me with the ever so gorgeous Art Gallery Jersey it is definitely a premium jersey it has such a lovely drape and weight to it.

So remember peeps Sewing is meant to be enjoyable and to have that satisfaction of making your own clothes is awesome so if you do get stuck please get in touch and i can help before you abandon it?

Sal xx

The post Simple Sew Raglan Dress Tutorial appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.

Hello! Welcome to my 1st Tutorial for Simplicity! I’m a Simplicity Sewing Expert!!! What a Title eh?!

I’ve waited to post this on my Blog till both parts of my Tutorial was live on the Simplicity Blog.

I can finally share the beauties I’ve made!! As you will know I am an Instagram addict and have many postings of my sewing adventures and for me not to post a single thing on the construction of this was extremely hard!

What an honour when Simplicity asked me to provide a Tutorial for them! You can’t say no to such a Well Known Pattern House! When they asked me to shortlist 3 patterns to write a tutorial for, I came across the usual dress I like to sew, jersey top and then this interesting pattern by Mandalynne aka Maddie Flanigan that caught my attention! So of course I added it to my shortlist and when they came to back to me and told me they had picked the Bra and Knickers Set, I was excited and then nervous at the same time, how can I live up to Maddie’s exceptional Lingerie Sewing Skills?!! For some reason I do love to chuck myself into the deep end don’t I?!

With the good thing about this pattern is that it starts at Size 32A to 42DD and Knicker Size XS-XL so this is a good all rounder pattern that will fit many people

Now then! First open up the envelope and make yourselves a brew and read the instructions and make a list of materials/equipment you need if you don’t have them already so no last minute dash to the local haberdashery store or waiting days for online orders! There isn’t anything worse than you wanting to get on with sewing when you can’t!

Simplicity 8228 Sewing Pattern

3.6m of 8″ Wide Stretch Twin Gallon White Lace

1.5m of Bra Lining Mesh Fabric

1 x 28mm Hook and Eye back fastener

1.5m of Light Cream 1/4″ Lingerie Elastic

5m of Pink Plush Picot Elastic

0.5m of Bra Casing aka Channeling

1m of Cream Stretch Jacquard Simplex Tricot

Small piece of Jersey for the Gusset

Odif 505AD Temporary Adhesive Spray – This stuff is the bee’s knee’s!! Why I haven’t come across this till now I’ll never know! It is a definite must when making lingerie! It makes life sooo much easier

Ballpoint Needle – I used size 80/15

1/4″ Quilter’s foot to get that spot on 1/4″ Seam Allowance

Normal Sewing Foot

 Gutermann Thread

Pins and Weights

Mini Clips – You’ll see why later

Measuring Tape and Ruler

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

Scissors

After debating or not to pre-wash my fabric like I would normally do with constructing clothing, I decided not to as a lot of people said it could distort the fabric and make it harder to work with and to wash the bra/knickers after construction, so I’m following that route but of course its down to personal preference but I’d thought I would throw caution to the wind!

Now to find your perfect Bra size:

On the Instructions it will give you a Chart with measurements to calculate the Bra size you need to cut out. Please don’t refer to your normal Ready to Wear Bra sizing as i normally take a 32DD from retailers and if I had cut and sewn that it would have no way of fitted me!

My Under Chest Measurement fell into the 36 band Size Measurement and Fullest Chest Measurement fell into the D Cup Size.

Now you have your Bra Size, cut out the Pattern pieces you require, I have made Halter Bra A and I only need Pieces 1,2 and 3. Thankfully Simplicity has made this easy for you and have labelled each back size individually with the required pieces for each Bra! Yes!

The Knicker sizing is just down to your Waist Measurement and my Measurement was smack in the middle of the Medium so I cut that one out. If you are unsure of the sizing, I would make the size in a toile to make sure the fit would be okay. But I’m lucky enough know from previous experience of Simplicity Patterns that the Medium would be okay.

The Knickers require Pieces 12,13,14,15,16,17 and 18.

Warning! (sirens go off!) This step is the most important! The Lace and the Mesh are treated as one Fabric so you must follow the steps below to prepare the fabric;

For ease of use, Cut the mesh into strips that cover the pattern pieces like I’ve shown below, so one mesh piece to cover one set of the Bra pieces, another for the other set of Bra pieces then one Piece to cover the Band.

Then cut the Gallon lace to the same sizes of the pieces of mesh then get ready to get messy hahahaha!

Now make sure you have a mat or some newspaper or ought to cover your surfaces as this Spray Adhesive is quite sticky!

Spray the Mesh evenly, from one edge to the other and place the wrong side of the Gallon Lace over the Mesh so that the right Side of the lace is facing you and to make sure that the inner points of the scallops are even with the raw edge of the mesh like I’ve shown here:

Now to get the pattern pieces cleanly cut, I’ve used my own handmade weights out of polymer clay or anything that is heavy will do as long it wont shift your pattern piece about whilst cutting. Also used a Rotary Cutter too as it’ll be quite hard to get that perfect clean cut otherwise.

Now your thinking maybe if the fold the lace/mesh fabric Right Sides Together, I would get my pattern pieces cut out in no time. Personally, I wouldn’t like to risk it, I cut out my pieces all in one layer….yes it may be time consuming but at least you know it has been cut out with care with a nice clean edge

Just a little tip when cutting out the Bra Pattern Pieces out as they as one set is cut out with the pattern piece face down and the other is pattern piece facing up. I placed a piece of fabric round the face Down Pattern Pieces so i knew which was which.

For the Bottom Band, Line up your inner Scallops to the Raw edge of the mesh as you don’t need to worry about matching the rest as it will be cut away.

Then you should have the following Pieces for constructing the Bra, together with the haberdashery bits:

Hurray! now onto sewing the Halter Neck Bra!

Remember the Seam Allowance is 1/4″ or 6mm if you use Metric system until otherwise told so in the Instructions. That’s why I’ll be using my Quilter’s foot as that is just made for 1/4″ Seams so you just keep to the edge of the foot

Step 1. With Right Sides Together, pin the Cup Front (Pattern Piece 1) to Cup Side Front (Pattern Piece 2), remembering to match up the dots and notches and stitch in place and press the Seam towards the centre. Repeat for other set of Bra Pieces.

Step 2. With the Right Side of the Bra Facing you, Top Stitch the Cup front using a 3cm wide Zig Zag Stitch or Straight Stitch  ( I prefer Zig Zag) away from the initial Seam in Step 1 but to make sure it catches the Seam Allowance and that it doesn’t look ugly (Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!)– To Help guide you, I’ve placed my seam to the split in my normal sewing foot and that the Zig Zag Stitch will be close enough to the seam but will catch the outer edge of it like this shown below and repeat for other Cup Front.

Step 3. Cut a Piece of the Lingerie elastic to the length of the Cup Front Edge, on the Inside (The Wrong Side Facing you) place the elastic along the mesh edge and sew though the centre of the Elastic using (3mm wide) Zig Zag Stitch.

Cut another Piece of the Lingerie elastic to the length of the Cup Side Front Edge, on the Inside (The Wrong Side Facing you) place the elastic along the mesh edge and sew though the centre of the Elastic using (3mm wide) Zig Zag Stitch. Repeat for other Set. So you will have 2 Cups with Elastic sewn down both sides.

Step 4. Cut a Piece of Plush Picot Elastic to the length of the underarm edge of the bridge to the end of the band like shown here:

On the Outside (Right Side Facing you), place the elastic on the underarm edge, having the flat edge of the elastic match the raw edge of the lace/mesh. Stitch as close as you can to the Picot edge using a (3cm)Zig Zag stitch, stretching the elastic slightly as you sew.

Step 5. Turn the Elastic to the Inside (wrong Side of the Fabric). Stitch the Elastic close to the inner edge using the same Zig Zag Stitch as in Step 4.

Look at the nice Picot edging!

Step 6. With The Right Sides Together, pin the Bra Cups to the Bridge and Band, matching the centres and small dots. Switch back to your Quilter’s Foot as you’ll be need 1/4″ Seam Allowance. Then Stitch from one end to the Centre. Then Stitch from the other end to the Centre. Remembering to keep the outer edges of the cup away from the Seam Allowance.

Step 7. Cut two pieces of the Channeling to the length of the Lower Edge of the Bra Cup Seam Allowance. On the Inside (Wrong Side Facing you) pin the inner edge of the Channeling to the Seam Allowance close to the Seam Line. Stitch close to the inner edge of the Channeling. Then start sewing from one edge to the centre and repeat for the other side, the Channeling will overlap at the Centre Front.

Step 8. Press the Seam and Channeling towards the Bridge.  On the Outside (Right Side Facing you), Top Stitch away from the Seam, Stitching through all layers and catching the Channeling on the inside.

Step 9. Close the Channeling by using a Zig Zag stitch across it at the centre front and the underarm (Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!). Trim the Channeling so that its flush with the underarm edge, being careful not to cut through the Lace or Picot.

Step 10. Now to add the Hook and Eye Fastener. Open out the opening of the Eye end of the Fastener. Slip in 1/2″ (1.3cm) of the Left Band into the Open end of the Fastener with the Eyes on the Outside (They are facing you). Stitch close to the opening edge of the fastener through all thicknesses (Fastener and Lace/Mesh).

Open out the Hook end of the Bra Fastener, Again, Slip 1/2″ (1.3cm) of the Right band into the open end of the Fastener with the Hooks on the Inside (Facing Away from you). Stitch close to the opening edge of the fastener through all thicknesses (Fastener and Lace/Mesh)

Step 11.  Try on the Bra. Make any adjustment at the Centre Back Neck Seam, if necessary. I needed too upon trying it on and I took 1″ 3/4 off each side.  With Right Sides Together, stitch the Centre Back Neck Seam. Trim the seam 1/4″ (6mm) if necessary ( I did anyways I felt it give it a better finish after Step 12.)

Step 12. On the Outside (Right Side Facing you) Top Stitch using a Zig Zag stitch close to the Seam (Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!) and that it covers the edge of the Seam Allowance for a Neat and tidy Finish.

And Voila! Here is one Super Comfy Soft Bra as modelled by Dorris the Mannequin. I’m sorry but I don’t think the world is ready to see my goodies on show I may break the internet.

One down and one to go! Now onto the Knickers or for the American friends Panties!

Thankfully you don’t have to do the fiddly construction of treating the Lace and Mesh as one.  So you need the Lace for Pattern Pieces 14 and 16, Stretch Jacquard Simplex Tricot for Pieces 12 and 15 and a small amount of 100% Cotton Jersey for the Gusset. Pattern Pieces 17 and 18 are just Guides for the Leg and Waist Elastic.

I would recommend cutting the Leg and Waist Elastic now as it just saves cutting out things again once you’ve already cut out the fabrics

Then your Knicker Supplies should look like this ready to sew!

Step 1. Zig zag stitch the Front edges of the Knickers front (Pattern Piece 12) and Upper edges of Knickers Back (Pattern Piece 15) – Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!. This is to finish the edges to stop them fraying and to also give it a nice professional finish. I’ve used the following stitch length and wide:

Step 2. On the Outside (Right Side Facing you) place the Wrong Side of the Lace Panels, Knickers Side Front (Pattern Piece 14) to the Right Side of Knicker Front, lapping Front Edge of the Side Front over the Front, matching the 1/4″ (6mm) Seam Allowance. Pin, placing pins on the Outside (The Right Side Facing you) and making sure you catch both the Lace and the Knicker Fabric. Stitch along the Seam Line using a 1/8″ (3mm) Wide Zig Zag Stitch or Straight Stitch.

*Just to help you a little tip I found to get the straight Seam Line for Step 2. I transferred my pins to the other side (Inside/Wrong Side facing you) so that edge of the Knicker fabric was visible and a lot easier to get the straight Seam Line.*

Step 3. Right Sides Together, stitch the Centre Back Seam of the Knickers Side Back (Pattern Piece 16)- Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot!. Press the Seam towards one side.

Step 4. On the Outside (Right Side facing you), Switch back to your Normal Sewing Foot and Top Stitch using a Zig Zag stitch close to the Seam so that it covers the edge of the Seam Allowance underneath for a Neat and tidy Finish.

Step 5. Place the Wrong Side of the Knickers Side Back (Pattern Piece 16) to the Right Side of the Knickers Back (Pattern Piece 15). lapping Lower Back edge of the Side Back over the Back, matching the Centres and matching the 1/4″ (6mm) Seam Allowance. Pin, placing pins on the Outside (The Right Side Facing you) and making sure you catch both the Lace and the Knicker Fabric. Stitch along the Seam Line using a 1/8″ (3mm) Wide Zig Zag Stitch or Straight Stitch. Refer to my helpful tip after Step 2 if you need a little assistance to get it aligned. Also when you get to the Centre V remember to stop sewing before you get to the end and keep your needle in the fabric, Lift up the Foot and Pivot your fabric to continue to sew on the other side.

Step 6. Zig Zag stitch the front un-notched edge of the Crotch lining (Pattern Piece 13) – Remember to use your Normal Sewing foot! This is to the finish the edge.

Step 7. With Right Sides Together, Place the Knicker Back over Knicker front at the Crotch Seam Line, matching the notches, making sure the Raw Edges are even.

Step 8. Stitch the Front to the Back at the Side Seam, using a Straight Stitch then finish with a Zig Zag stitch close to the raw edges of the Seam Allowance then press the Seam toward the Front of the Knickers.

Step 9. Press the Crotch lining and pin to the Inside of the Knicker front, placing the Pins on the Outside and making sure that the Raw edges are even.

Cut two pieces of the Picot edge elastic of the length of the Leg Elastic Guide (Pattern Piece 18). Or as we prepared earlier at the beginning, Blue Peter Style!

On the Outside (Right Side of the Knickers) place the elastic on the Leg Edge, having the flat edge of the elastix extend by 1/8″ (3mm) beyond the outer edge, making sure you have the plush side of the elastic Facing you and lapping the ends by 1/2″ (1.3cm) at the Back just above the Crotch Seam.

* Tip time! Start at the Overlap part at the Crotch Seam then Pin then find the middle by folding the Elastic in half and finding the halfway mark on the kickers by folding them too then pin the Elastic. I just find it easier to insert knicker Elastic this way to make sure it evenly placed.*

Stitch close to the Picot Edge, using a 1/8″ (3mm) Wide Zig Zag Stitch being careful not to stretch the Elastic as you sew.

Step 10. Turn the elastic to the Inside. Stitch the elastic Close to the Inner edge using the Zig Zag Stitch.

Step 11. Cut a piece of the Plush Picot elastic the Length of the Knicker Waist Elastic Guide (Pattern Piece 17). Or as we prepared earlier at the beginning, Blue Peter Style!

Apply the Elastic to the Waistline in the same manner as for the legs and have the Elastic lap at one of the Side Seams.

Oh there you go!!! You now have a matching Bra and Knickers lovingly made by you!! Well of course these we made by moi!

Now then! Taking on your on own Lingerie is not as scary as you think is it?! I am really pleased of the outcome for both of them! To say I’ve not really used Lace to sew with it was quite easy to sew with as my Mr Singer does like to eat finer fabric but he has behaved for a change!

I can see myself making more of these as they are simple to do once you have made one and made it to fit you These will be my sleep wear for bed, Yes they are that comfy!!

A very Big Thank you to Kellie at The Sewing Chest for providing me the lovely materials to make this set! She is fantastic, if you need any advice she’s the woman to go too and very speedy delivery too!

Now, I hope this Tutorial has shown you that it’s not as daunting as you think to make your own.

If you need any help just give me a shout here, Instagram, My Facebook Page or Twitter

Sal xx

The post Simplicity 8228 Soft Cup Bra and Knickers Tutorial appeared first on The Yorkshire Sewist.